Mother of Pearl

Mother-of-pearl is the glossy, iridescent inner layer of seashells. It’s known for a soft sheen in white, creamy and subtly rainbow-like tones that shift beautifully in the light without looking overly sparkly.

Mother-of-pearl is often confused with pearls, but they are not the same: mother-of-pearl is a material from the shell itself, while pearls form inside the mollusc and are typically round. Both have a beautiful lustre, but they create a different look in jewellery.

Mother-of-pearl is a natural material and needs gentle care. Avoid water, perfume and impacts to preserve the surface and its glow.

Mother-of-pearl is a classic in jewellery design because it has a natural, lively sheen that works with almost any outfit. At the same time, it’s often mixed up with freshwater pearls – so it’s useful to know the difference when choosing jewellery.

What is mother-of-pearl?

Mother-of-pearl (nacre) is the glossy inner layer of shell and pearl shells. It’s a natural material made up of layers that reflect light and create the characteristic soft “rainbow sheen” (iridescence). In jewellery, mother-of-pearl is typically used as inlays or discs, where the surface can be polished perfectly smooth for a calm, elegant lustre.

What colour is mother-of-pearl?

Mother-of-pearl is often associated with white, but it’s rarely a “flat” white. The colour typically sits within:

  • white, cream and ivory

  • pale grey tones

  • a subtle blush or warm undertone

  • an iridescent sheen, where you may catch green/blue/pink reflections in the light

That means mother-of-pearl can look slightly different depending on lighting and angle – and that’s a big part of why it’s so popular.

Mother-of-pearl vs. freshwater pearls – what’s the difference?

This is the most important clarification, because the two are often mixed up:

  • Mother-of-pearl is material from the inside of the shell. It’s often used as a flat or gently curved surface (e.g., pendants, inlays, small plates) and has an even, glossy “sheen.”

  • Freshwater pearls form inside a mussel. They are typically round or slightly oval and used as individual pearls on chains/earrings. They have a more classic “pearl lustre” and a soft, organic surface.

Visually, you can often tell them apart like this:

  • Mother-of-pearl: flatter/inlaid look, “silky” smooth surface, and a clear iridescent glow.

  • Freshwater pearls: round/oval pearls with classic lustre and small natural variations in shape and surface.

Both are beautiful, but they create different looks. Mother-of-pearl often feels more “light and graphic,” while freshwater pearls feel more “classic and romantic.”

Is mother-of-pearl a stone?

No, mother-of-pearl is not a stone. It’s a natural shell material. That’s why it needs gentler care than many mineral stones (such as quartz or cubic zirconia).

How is mother-of-pearl used in jewellery?

Mother-of-pearl is often used in:

  • pendants and lockets/medallions

  • small inlays in rings and earrings

  • charms and details that add a light highlight

It’s popular because it looks elegant without feeling “blingy,” and because it pairs beautifully with both gold and silver.

Which metals suit mother-of-pearl?

Mother-of-pearl is very versatile:

  • Gold/gold-plated brings out warmer undertones (cream/ivory) for a classic, soft look.

  • Silver creates a cooler, cleaner feel where the white sheen looks crisp.

Is mother-of-pearl durable?

Mother-of-pearl is fine for everyday wear, but it’s more delicate than many stones. It can scratch if it rubs against harder materials, and it can be damaged by impacts. That’s why mother-of-pearl is often best in jewellery with less friction (e.g., earrings and necklaces). Rings can work too – but care and storage matter more.

Can mother-of-pearl handle water, soap and perfume?

Mother-of-pearl does best with gentle handling. To preserve the sheen, avoid:

  • perfume, hairspray and creams directly on the surface

  • cleaning products and strong soaps

  • bathing, sauna and swimming pools (chlorine/salt can affect the surface)

A good rule of thumb: put mother-of-pearl jewellery on last and take it off first when getting ready and when the day ends.

How do you clean mother-of-pearl?

Clean mother-of-pearl carefully:

  • use a soft, dry cloth for daily wiping

  • if needed: a slightly damp cloth (no harsh scrubbing)

  • always dry afterwards with a soft cloth

Avoid ultrasonic cleaning and chemical cleaners. Mother-of-pearl benefits most from gentle care.

Why do many people choose mother-of-pearl?

Mother-of-pearl is popular because it:

  • creates a light, feminine and timeless look

  • shifts beautifully in the light without being “too much”

  • suits both everyday wear and special occasions

  • makes a great gift because the colour is neutral and easy to style

If you love a “pearl look” but want something a bit lighter and more modern, mother-of-pearl is often an excellent choice. If you want the classic, round pearl look, freshwater pearls are typically the obvious option.